Germany Tour - Day 6 - Sunday 30th March, Noch Besser Leben, Leipzig, Hamburg

And so to Leipzig by train, direct from Hamburg,  a 3 hour journey made all the more easier by the comfortable Deutchbahn trains, and the Neu! and Can soundtrack in my headphones. Well, when in Germany..... 

Hold on tight, its gonna be a long trip...

Leipzig is the largest city in the Saxony region, and is famous for its music and culture (it was once dubbed 'the Paris of the East'). The city was once home to the composers Bach and Mendelssohn and is the birthplace of Wagner. Its an extremely grand city, which is immediately apparent by the opulence of its train station, once the largest in Europe. It has two main entrances and exits, and it is extremely easy to get lost inside of it, which we did as soon as we disembarked the train.

After maintaining our composure and finding our way out of the station, we managed to hail a taxi to the venue for tonight's show at Noch Besser Leben. The stage was the upstairs room of a cool bar, frequented by a mixture of hipsters and locals playing chess. The walls were full of old photos from East German days. The room was probably one of the smallest we played on this tour, but it made for a cosy atmosphere.

As we set up our gear for the soundcheck, a strange man suddenly appeared. I didn't hear him enter the room, he was just there. He spoke no English, and beckoned us over to a table where he laid out three photos of Alison and I, including the Left Outsides logo (copyright Karl Sabino) which looked like they'd been hastily put together on photoshop. He had a pen and wanted us to sign them. I bet they'll make him a fortune on Leipzig Market next week. I assumed this was a set up by Mike and Matt, but apparently not.  He left the room as mysteriously as he entered. I never actually saw him leave either, which worried me a bit. One minute he was there, the next he was gone, a bit like the the shopkeeper in the kids cartoon programme 'Mr Ben' except with a beard, a beer belly and a German accent.

The soundcheck was one of the best we've ever had, made all the more easier by the fact that there was no soundman - he was running late. Personally, I've never really seen the point in having over elaborate soundchecks. Just check that the equipment is working and that's all there is to it really. So thats exactly what we do, and that leaves us plenty of time to taste the local beer. We quickly find a cinema bar across the road and we get stuck into the erdinger weissbier. This beats weak Fosters lager any day of the week. There is also the interestingly named Duckstein, and Lagerbier Hell.....

No ducks were harmed in the making of this beer

Whilst necking our German beer we get talking to one of the locals, a very small man called Klaus, who worked at the local art gallery. He was tremendous company and regaled us with tales of old Leipzig from times gone by. He was charming, and we enjoyed Klaus's company very much indeed.

Leipzig by night, outside the venue

And so to the show. Quite a crowd had gathered, some had seen our feature in the local Leipzig paper and came to check us out. The cosy atmosphere made for a intense show, and the sound was awesome (well, it would be wouldn't it?). We debut a new tune for the encore, the traditional North East English mining disaster balled, 'The Trimdon Grange Explosion', taught to Alison and I by our dear friend Ben Phillipson back home. It goes down well. 

After much merryment and more weissbier we are shown to our accommodation for the night, next door to the venue. I won't dwell on this too much, besides to say that it'll be a lovely room when it gets finished next year.....

More soon, stay tuned...

Mark

X

 

 

Germany Tour - Day 5 - Friday 28th March, Hasenschaukel, Hamburg

l-r: Alison Cotton, Mark Nicholas, Matt Ashton, Mike Smoughton

We were all really excited about playing and spending time in Hamburg and we certainly weren't disappointed. 

We had a day off here, so we had booked ourselves into an upmarket hostel (so my brother informs me, he's almost a connoisseur of such things) for two nights. St Pauli is an area crammed full of cool bars, cafes, and vintage clothes shops. Matt had disappeared off to explore the wonders of these streets before we had even checked in. 

Mr. Matt Aston - outside of the hostel, shopping

Hailing down a taxi to take us to the venue proved a difficult task but we arrived at the venue and I immediately had such a good feeling about the place. Everywhere we had played so far on the tour were places that I would be a regular at if I lived in the city in which they were located. This one, well, I'd be sat at the bar, or rather, reclining in one of the antique armchairs in the back room every night if I lived in Hamburg!   

Two very cool guys named Tanju and Julian welcomed us to Hasenschaukel and I was just in awe looking around at a place that had obviously been designed with such individuality and such personal touches. Full of baroque furniture but with quirky details such as dolls hanging above chandeliers and wallpaper in the toilets as if from taken from illustrations in a children's book. 

When we arrived, this was written on the blackboard in the venue. They must have seen us two Camberwellians coming

And then there was the music. As we set up to soundcheck I recalled how often I'd been deafened by soundmen inflicting their bad taste in music upon me, blasting awful heavy metal from the speakers. It hardly puts me in the mood to play a good gig. Here, Tanju played 'Scott' by Scott Walker (I'll never forget tuning up my viola, staring out onto the streets of Hamburg, looking at Mark and my friends and hearing 'Montague Terrace in Blue') and then, after soundcheck, Bevis Frond started playing on the stereo! So, at this point we were completely sure that this was a perfect place for us and we were playing at a venue most certainly run by like-minded people.

The stage - photo (like most you see on this blog) is taken by Matt Ashton

After a delicious meal that the lovely Anja from the venue had made us, we took to the stage. The stage was situated by the window of the venue so anyone walking by could look in and see us play. But we had a wonderful crowd and we met some truly lovely fans in Hamburg that once we started playing I didn't notice the passers-by at all. Again, we played a long set, a couple of encores, and I dedicated 'Ring Out the Bells' to Chris as it was his last day with us. 

It was a Friday night, and after the show we were certainly in the party mood. This mood was driven even more by the music that the djs this night began to play. We all sang along to Martha & the Muffins, Duran Duran, Steely Dan, Human League and Squeeze. One of the djs came over for a chat and we were highly amused that he thought Mike resembled a young Michael Caine. 

The night was still young (well, for Hamburg anyway) and Mark had just received a text message. It was from our good friends Dead Meadow who had been playing just round the corner in a club on the infamous Reeperbahn. They had invited us to join them for a beer so Mark and I braved the scary crowds of 'stag do's' and euro-drunks who all seemed to congregate on the pavement, hanging out, drinking and we walked briskly to Molotov, the club where they had just played. Jason from the band met us at the door and we went backstage with them. It was great to see them and we watched videos of a gig they'd played the previous week - in a castle in Italy - it looked amazing! So, after a few beers and a good chat we said our goodbyes and made our way back to Hasenshaukel.

Mark and I try to fathom out a route to Molotov avoiding The Reeperbahn. Good wine it was too.....

We asked Tanju when we arrived back what time Hasenshaukel closed. He told us that it stayed open all night. I'm not sure what time it was by now. I had a few fascinating conversations with people who were so passionate about music I could have talked so much longer - with Julian from the venue about Syd Barrett and with a guy named Norbert who ran another venue in Hamburg about the early recordings of Townes Van Zandt that he owns that were recorded at his venue. I could have talked for hours, but it was time to go.

We were asked to sign a guest book at Hasenshauckel. Art work by Matt Ashton.

So, one of the best nights of the tour and I hope to return to Hamburg very soon.

The next morning I had a slightly bad head but I couldn't let this get in the way of a day off in Hamburg. 

 

Stay tuned for our tales of Leipzig very, very soon.

Alison

X

Germany Tour - Day 4 - Thursday 27th March, Feinkost Lampe, Hannover

Alison is having a night off from the blog, so I thought I'd tell you about our show in Hannover, at a venue called Feinkost Lampe. 

But first, our day started with a trip to Berlin's central rail station, Hauptbahnhof, currently the biggest station in Europe. We are taking the train on this tour, traveling light and borrowing equipment at each venue. The German railways are typically err, German. Extremely efficient, cheap and clean. Sehr Gut! There's a certain amount of discipline when taking the train. You have to be at the station on time - a tour bus will wait but the train won't. Trains don't get lost on the autobahn either.

It's just over an hour and a half west from Berlin to Hannover, capital of the Lower Saxony region. We arrive on time and take taxis to the venue. There's time to sample the local beer, and we opt for the 'Wolf' bar across the road from the venue. It's a rock bar, blasting out superb AC/DC and Motorhead tunes. It goes down well with the local weisbier and puts us in a good mood for the soundcheck.

The venue is in an old school classroom, run by Arne and Pauli, the local cool kids who set up this venue over the last year. It is decked out in fine retro Scandinavian furniture, low lighting, coffee tables and kitsch 60's bric a brac.

the venue - retro furniture

I am most impressed with the toilets however - a spoken word Agatha Christie novel is played through speakers - in German, of course.  Very odd. I manage to get a recording later on, much to some of the local punters bemusement/amusement. There is an old Bontempi organ in there too. That's my kind of toilet. 

Bontempi organ in the ablutions

Before the show, we are treated to some home cooking - spinach and goats cheese gnocci with salad, and a plum pie for afters. We all agree that its gonna be a good show tonight.

The venue is only open once a week, so it soon starts to fill up with all the local hipsters in town, and before long, it's standing room only. Chris places our merchandise in amongst the 60's kitsch in the display cabinet. Its like a tripped out sweet shop in here. 

probably the most creative display of merchandise on the tour

The DJ is most impressive, starting out with some eerie soundscapes and downbeat electronica. He soon builds things up with Midlake and Gravenhurst before we take the stage. He was Matt's favourite dj of the tour.

The show is a good one. Mike is on great form tonight. He somehow manages to make a snare drum and marraca sound like a full drum kit... no mean feat, that. God knows how he manages it. Half way through the show I see a face I recognise. It's the guy from the 'Wolf' rock bar who's come to check us out, and he's down the front grooving away. Awwwlriiight!

We encore with our version of the Thirteenth Floor Elevators song, 'Splash 1' and before we know it, its all over. Chris does a fine impression of del-boy Trotter, selling our wares with a certain charm. The evening goes on late, drinking the fine German beer and chatting to the locals who are charming and polite. We like Hannover a lot. If we lived here, we'd come to this night for sure.

We are given directions to our accommodation for the night. Its 5 a five minute walk away at 'Ralph's place'. His is the pad to crash for most rock and rollers who visit town. Comfortable futons make for a good nights sleep. We don't see Ralph until the next morning. He's a lovely guy, and he's put on a lavish German breakfast for us - Frushtuck. Its bread, ham, salami, and fine cheese, yoghurt, boiled eggs and lots and lots of coffee. There's just enough time to sign Ralph's guestbook, and look through his extensive collection of C90 tapes, before its time to go. 

We have another train to catch, this time to Hamburg......

Ralph's fine collection of tapes

Stay tuned for day 5 very, very soon,

Mark

X

Germany Tour - Day 3 - Wednesday 26th March, Shokoladen, Berlin

As my brother Chris and I sat in a cinema cafe in Mitte hours before the Shokoladen show we discussed a gallery that we'd both visited, on completely separate occasions on this visit to Berlin. Hamburger Bahnhof is a tremendous, old railway station (as the name suggests), now art gallery. Five exhibitions were taking place there on this visit and we talked briefly about what we'd seen but both of us were determined to get onto our favourite piece in the gallery. Almost in unison, we both revealed that this was a black and white Stan Douglas photograph of an old theatre in Detroit, the Michigan Theatre which was now a parking lot. All that is left of the theatre is it's highly decorative vaulted canopy but to see that hang over a car park is just surreal and extremely sad but very captivating. I suppose I was very aware of this idea, being in Berlin. I mean, we played in an old tool manufacturing factory, we visited a hospital that was now an art gallery, the gallery itself was an old train station, tonight we were to play in an old chocolate factory......the list is endless. But I don't believe this is the reason that we both chose the same piece of art. Coincidence, maybe, but then the photo was right at the end of the gallery and was so small many would have missed it.

Now, if that wasn't weird, this is weird. Last night I turned the television on late at night, just before going to bed and that very same theatre / parking lot was there, right in front of me. Only, this time it was in that Eminem film and violent things were going on in there that I didn't care to watch so I turned it off before my memory of that beautiful photograph had been tainted.

So, on to Shokoladen. We played here last time we were in Berlin and I just love this venue. A former chocolate factory in Mitte, built in 1881 it certainly looks like, and I imagine was, an old cabaret theatre. The stage is one of the most beautiful I have played on, with red velvet curtains, a piano and even a standup lamp. 

A lovely Australian girl name Sarah who has been living in Berlin for some time promoted the night. We all really like Sarah and her night 'Acoustic Moon' has a regular crowd and a nice, friendly vibe about it. Sarah once sung backing vocals with Nick Cave in the film Wings of Desire when he was living in Berlin which impressed us a great deal.

The support act that night was an American girl named Cera Impala with a beautiful folk voice, accompanied by her partner on fiddle. I enjoyed them a lot.

Those of the audience who choose to sit down (the majority, at this night) sat on raised benches, like a terrace. It's quite strange looking out from the stage to that, and in this old venue it feels as if we are in another time.  

Ursula comes down tonight and films us, from the very top bench. The audience are quiet and attentive and concentrate on every note we play. Something that we find at most gigs on the tour and surely that's how it should be. In general, people come to gigs to watch bands over here rather than just chat with their mates which has got to be a good thing. both for bands and audiences.

We play a long set - over an hour tonight and we play two encores. They were a demanding audience!

Some of the lovely audience, sat on the raised benches..... 

Sarah is most generous with drinks and we are all in extremely high spirits after the show. Everyone seems to want to talk to Chris over at the merch desk so I wander over there but miss them all and someone is talking to him about.....Falmouth. I never actually asked what that was all about and didn't wait around long enough to find out. I joined Matt and Mike who were talking to a somewhat drunken Dutchman. Not for long though, I wouldn't think..... And then over in the other corner, Mark was there, talking to a Norwegian guy who had brought his whole family along to see us.

Again, we thoroughly enjoyed the dj at Shokoladen. A fine choice of records.

l-r: spots, checks, stripes

This is our last night in Berlin and I feel very sad to be leaving, although at the same time, excited about the tour. I have this feeling about Berlin that there is something there for me. I feel so happy when I'm there. I can honestly say that it is my favourite city of those I've ever visited and I just want to keep returning, as often as I can. So, Berlin was amazing and the Deutsch Bahn awaits.

 

Chris stays in a room above Shokoladen for the night. Here he is about to retire to bed......

Stay tuned to this station for day 4..... Hannover, home of the Scorpions.

Alison x

Germany Tour - Day 2 - Tuesday 25th March Antje Oklesund

Mark & I entering an art installation in a converted hospital - art gallery near where we stayed in Kreuzberg

Mike Smoughton - Berlin (Matt's behind the camera)

After an enjoyable day off in Berlin the next show was at Antje Oklesund.  My brother Chris had just arrived so we were happy to see him.

Our friend Ursula had organised this show and her act 'Skirt' was also to play. Going by what Ursula had told us about the place we were really excited about this one. 

Antje Oklesund is an old tool manufacturing factory which now serves as an artspace. It opens just one night a week and when it does open it certainly is a real event. They have their own, regular crowd, it's non-profit making and it's run by a group of people who work very hard to put together these nights.

We arrive at the space and are invited to do something that we've never been asked to do before and, sadly, probably never will again - to build our own stage. A huge pile of white boxes lie in the corner of the room and we set to work to create our own individual stage, placing the white boxes on different levels to create platforms for ourselves. Such a simple concept but the character of the room could change each week depending on where the performer wished to  place these boxes. A wonderful idea.....

some of the boxes, as we found them....

And then Ursula ('Skirt') sets up on a newly-designed stage.....

As we are soundchecking, we see a lot of excitement by the door to the room. We are told that it has began to snow outside. We finish soundcheck and walk out onto a blanket of snow. 

The snow was thick, the night was dark, and I feared I would slip over. I struggled to keep up with the rest of them as they walked to the nearest cafe. As I reached the bottom of the hill I could not even work out in which direction they had walked. 

Me outside of the venue - trying to keep up in the snow.....

But then I witnessed a frenzied snowball fight. Snowballs were being thrown from every direction. Matt had waited for me (thanks Matt!) and we walked up to the cafe to hear a man apologise to Mark for the snowballs - he had just lost a darts tournament in a bar down the road and was in fact from Bristol. Oh well.

So, we arrive back at the venue to play a great set - it really felt like we were in some 60s film with the stage and the lighting and the whole atmosphere - I loved it. 'Skirt' was brilliant - Ursula's music is really beautiful and heartfelt. Everyone at the venue seemed to be having a good time and I loved the atmosphere of this place.

Most of the gigs we played on this tour had excellent djs. This one was amazing. The dj booth was set up high into the ceiling and, as we danced to the psych, prog and krautrock that he played, we waved to him in his castle. There was a little window that he looked out of from such a height. I really hope we get to hear him play again as he had such a skill to play some of the biggest sounding, yet obscure tunes. Brilliant!

As we left Antje Oklesund very late that night the snow had melted.

Stay tuned for day 3 soon!

Alison

x

   

Germany Tour - Day 1, The Bang Bang Club, Berlin - Sunday 23 March 2008

The Left Outsides plus our friend Mark Cremins, a little worse for wear at The Bateau Bar, Kreuzberg, Berlin. L-R Matt Ashton, Mark Cremins, Mike Smoughton, Alison Cotton, Mark Nicholas.

Eight shows and thirteen days in Germany and here I am, on a snowy Sunday afternoon in Camberwell with Amon Duul II on the stereo, recalling what I expect willone day account for some of the happiest moments on the road for me. So I've decided to write about it on this blog.

Mike Smoughton and Matt Ashton - this blog cannot start without giving them a mention - Mark and I could not have been in better company throughout the whole tour and their playing at the shows every night was just brilliant.

My brother Chris Cotton - thanks to him too for all his help in selling our merch, and being such a great and happy companion.

Thanks to Ursula Maurer for her generosity and help in Berlin, and to the promoters in Germany who all went out of their way to organise such great and enjoyable shows for us, and for their kind hospitality - Siegmar Roscher, Arne Paulson & Pauli, Sarah Asling, Tanju, Jacques Tiergarten and Stefan Prange. 

Berlin - The Bang Bang Club - Sunday 23rd March

On our walk to the first show of the tour, a mouse runs past me. I scream. I take a few more nervous steps forward only to see a dead bird on the ground. This makes me panic even more. I doubt the two were linked, and I am not usually superstitious, but at the back of my mind I couldn't help but wonder. I was left with this horrible image in my head for some time after but I am pleased to say that this event had no impact on the tour at all. 

We played at The Bang Bang Club last time we visited Berlin and we're pleased to return. Situated under a railway arch in Mitte, The Bang Bang Club is run by a team of very cool, friendly young people who are passionate about music. It is very clear that that is why they are there and that is always comforting to arrive at a venue and to see that. It just somehow creates a good vibe from the start. It was good to be back.

Outside the Bang Bang Club, Berlin. Matt is behind the camera

Grimm & The Brothers who are from Berlin supported us at this show. They play beautiful, fairytale folk with echoes of Jefferson Airplane - lovely vocals and an inventive, unorthodox drummer. They were a perfect band to share a bill with. 

We played our first set of the tour, introducing a few songs we were to play live for the first time - 'Out of Time; Out of Place' and 'Always the Last to Know'. Thanks to Jacques Tiergarten at The Bang Bang Club for organising this show and I hope we can come back soon..... 

Matt and Mike disappeared off into the night with Mark Cremins to play ping pong at a ping pong bar in Prenzlauerberg and Mark and I returned to The Bateau Bar, Kreuzberg.

Late night/early morning Ping Pong action

Stay tuned for day 2 of the tour....

Alison

xx